TECHNICAL
I am purely an amateur photographer and only use consumer cameras and equipment. Photo manipulation is limited mainly to cropping and adjusting brightness and contrast levels. I tend to try to compose as much as possible within the viewfinder allowing a small margin for straightening and cropping. Photography is about looking for something slightly different from normal and a great photo can be seen in the most mundane of circumstances.
BUYING EQUIPMENT
I tend to buy my equipment used on ebay because funds are limited. However, I do research what I want thoroughly on the internet using equipment reviews before I buy and always pick a sale where returns are accepted. One word of caution from experience:- Buy Cheap, But Twice ! Always buy the very best equipment. If you can't afford it, save up until you can. Cheap equipment is unreliable, breaks easily and will let you down just when you need it most.
CAMERAS
My top camera is a Nikon D3 with two Nikon VR (Vibration Reduction) zoom lenses, 28-300mm and 80-400mm. These take really sharp images and when shot in RAW mode allow enough latitude to adjust using computer software. I also own many lenses between wide angle and telephoto plus one 105mm macro lens for close-ups. I use Nikon ViewNX2 software to edit and convert to JPEG. I tend to use Aperture control with this camera most of the time but also use shutter priority for moving wildlife.
My other camera is a Canon Powershot SX30IS bridge camera, i.e. a camera with a fixed zoom lens (35x zoom). It takes reasonably sharp images although not as sharp as the Nikon. It is also dreadful in low light giving extremely grainy results. I use it mainly for video and because of this most photographs are taken in Auto mode.
Other photos are taken with a simple Nikon P7100 compact.
LENSES
Most of the lenses for my Nikons are Nikon lenses 28-300mm, 28-70mm, 80-200mm, 80-400mm, 50mm prime and 105mm micro (macro). Two have Vibration Reduction (VR).
I also have a Sigma 12-24mm zoom wide-angle which gives good results and is ideal for wide landscapes or interiors. My best lenses are a Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5 VR which is really great for wildlife. Combined with my 28-300mm and a Nikon 1.4 x teleconverter I have no excuse for not being able to get a shot!
The 80-400mm lens is used with a gimbal head for flexibility when photographing birds.
I put UV filters on all of my lenses. This helps protect the actual lens front element from getting scratched.
TRIPOD
I now use a Gitzo carbon fibre tripod for landscape and nature photographs. Although the carbon fibre reduces weight, the head mount on the top is quite heavy. It is extremely stable. It has a Manfrotto ball head fitted. I also have a monopod for convenience although it is quite difficult to hold it steady at times. For the macro lens I also have a Manfrotto focusing rail.
Arca Swiss quick release plates are used on my camera and all long lenses with a tripod mount. These are very handy to use.
OTHER
I find the Lowepro bag and accessory system pretty sturdy and a good capacity when touring.
My filter holder is Lee "100" series (100mm) with Kood and Lee graduated and full Neutral Density filters plus a Circular Polarizing filter to reduce reflections and cut glare in some situations. I also have a 10 stop filter to produce very long exposures for blurring moving water on seascapes. All lenses have skylight (UV) filters for protection and every camera has LCD screen protection film applied to reduce scratching.
WORKFLOW
I have just bought Adobe Photoshop Elements 11 to organize, tag and edit my ever growing stock of photographs. First impressions are that it will do virtually everything I need as an enthusiast.
I am purely an amateur photographer and only use consumer cameras and equipment. Photo manipulation is limited mainly to cropping and adjusting brightness and contrast levels. I tend to try to compose as much as possible within the viewfinder allowing a small margin for straightening and cropping. Photography is about looking for something slightly different from normal and a great photo can be seen in the most mundane of circumstances.
BUYING EQUIPMENT
I tend to buy my equipment used on ebay because funds are limited. However, I do research what I want thoroughly on the internet using equipment reviews before I buy and always pick a sale where returns are accepted. One word of caution from experience:- Buy Cheap, But Twice ! Always buy the very best equipment. If you can't afford it, save up until you can. Cheap equipment is unreliable, breaks easily and will let you down just when you need it most.
CAMERAS
My top camera is a Nikon D3 with two Nikon VR (Vibration Reduction) zoom lenses, 28-300mm and 80-400mm. These take really sharp images and when shot in RAW mode allow enough latitude to adjust using computer software. I also own many lenses between wide angle and telephoto plus one 105mm macro lens for close-ups. I use Nikon ViewNX2 software to edit and convert to JPEG. I tend to use Aperture control with this camera most of the time but also use shutter priority for moving wildlife.
My other camera is a Canon Powershot SX30IS bridge camera, i.e. a camera with a fixed zoom lens (35x zoom). It takes reasonably sharp images although not as sharp as the Nikon. It is also dreadful in low light giving extremely grainy results. I use it mainly for video and because of this most photographs are taken in Auto mode.
Other photos are taken with a simple Nikon P7100 compact.
LENSES
Most of the lenses for my Nikons are Nikon lenses 28-300mm, 28-70mm, 80-200mm, 80-400mm, 50mm prime and 105mm micro (macro). Two have Vibration Reduction (VR).
I also have a Sigma 12-24mm zoom wide-angle which gives good results and is ideal for wide landscapes or interiors. My best lenses are a Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5 VR which is really great for wildlife. Combined with my 28-300mm and a Nikon 1.4 x teleconverter I have no excuse for not being able to get a shot!
The 80-400mm lens is used with a gimbal head for flexibility when photographing birds.
I put UV filters on all of my lenses. This helps protect the actual lens front element from getting scratched.
TRIPOD
I now use a Gitzo carbon fibre tripod for landscape and nature photographs. Although the carbon fibre reduces weight, the head mount on the top is quite heavy. It is extremely stable. It has a Manfrotto ball head fitted. I also have a monopod for convenience although it is quite difficult to hold it steady at times. For the macro lens I also have a Manfrotto focusing rail.
Arca Swiss quick release plates are used on my camera and all long lenses with a tripod mount. These are very handy to use.
OTHER
I find the Lowepro bag and accessory system pretty sturdy and a good capacity when touring.
My filter holder is Lee "100" series (100mm) with Kood and Lee graduated and full Neutral Density filters plus a Circular Polarizing filter to reduce reflections and cut glare in some situations. I also have a 10 stop filter to produce very long exposures for blurring moving water on seascapes. All lenses have skylight (UV) filters for protection and every camera has LCD screen protection film applied to reduce scratching.
WORKFLOW
I have just bought Adobe Photoshop Elements 11 to organize, tag and edit my ever growing stock of photographs. First impressions are that it will do virtually everything I need as an enthusiast.